0 Favorites 0 likes 9,150 浏览 890 个字

 

清代红绸地兰花刺绣马面裙  

  在海原县民间收藏有一件清代红绸地兰花刺绣马面裙(见图):裙长95、腰围116,裙门长77、宽44厘米。裙子上面以精美的刺绣装饰,华丽富贵。

马面裙裙门上的精美绣饰

  马面裙有前、后、内3个裙门,前、内两个门重合,前、后裙门绣有精美的蝴蝶、牡丹、菊花装饰;内裙门装饰较少,仅有一朵兰花;马面裙侧面打裥,疏密有致地分布着几朵小牡丹花、菊花、蝴蝶等;裙子以红色绸面为主色基调,每个群面边饰均采用了黑色;裙腰用粗白布,以纽或绳固结。前后裙门绣中间绣有一朵折枝牡丹,占据图案的中心,以对角线形式分别对称式绣出蓝色菊花和蝴蝶,蝴蝶绣有凤凰式的尾羽,并用高雅高贵的盘锦绣,使其在太阳光线的照耀下,金光闪闪,显得华丽富贵。

  清代世俗化的吉祥观念盛行,表现在工艺美术方面,强调“图必有意,意必吉祥。”在这种审美意识主导下,马面裙的色调采用了红色、黑色、金色、蓝色基调,配以蝴蝶、牡丹、菊花、兰花等花朵。

  红色象征着热情活力和坚韧的意志等;黑色则象征着高雅稳重和神秘的力量等,寓意安宁。这件马面裙黑色边饰也可以让红色更加突显出来,在黑色边饰内又加一道金丝织锦边,显得更加富丽堂皇。马面裙腰间采用的白布,寓意白头偕老。马面裙上的绣花,则以蓝色主基调,视觉上给人以深远感觉的蓝色是忠诚的象征,那些并不十分引人注目的蓝色花朵:紫罗兰、婆婆纳属、勿忘我等,都是忠诚的象征。

  蝴蝶常与爱恋、思慕等情感相联系,“复此从凤蝶,双双花上飞。寄语相知者,同心终莫违。”在最广为人知的梁祝故事中,梁祝二人化蝶双飞,蝴蝶成为人们向往和追求自由爱情的精神载体。在清代婚礼服饰中刺绣作品,蝴蝶多与各种花卉搭配组合在一起,称为“蝶恋花”,寓意爱情美满、婚姻幸福。蝴蝶纹样与“蝶”发音相同或相近的汉语字搭配组合,可用来表现抽象的吉祥概念。蝴蝶飞舞于牡丹花间,“捷”与“蝶”谐音,牡丹象征富贵,二者组合,寓意“捷报富贵”。又如瓜瓞绵绵的“瓞”多被代之以同音的“蝶”,用飞舞于瓜蔓间的蝴蝶表达对子孙延绵不绝的祈愿。这件马面裙,综合其做工和使用痕迹来看,应当是清代时期一件具有富贵吉祥寓意的婚礼服。

 

Related recommendations

Li Zhibin, also known as "Xiaoyaō Zi," shares the same name on Douyin and Kuaishou platforms. He is from Sichuan, has a passion for traditional culture, and is dedicated to arts such as poetry, calligraphy, and music...

Wang Shuangyi, courtesy name Yufei, born in Hebei in 1962, a member of the Communist Party of China, graduated with a college degree in calligraphy. Member of the 10th and 11th Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference of Ningjin County...

Liu Tianjing, also known as Tian Jin. Male, Han ethnicity, born in May 1968, from Longde County, Ningxia. He has studied the calligraphy and theory of the Two Wangs since childhood. Ningxia Calligraphers Association...

Guo Jindong, currently the Vice President and Chairman of the China Commercial Culture Research Association, a specially appointed researcher at the National Museum of China, former Vice President of the China National Academy of Painting, ...

Liu Keren, courtesy name Zilian, also known as Kuai Xue Tang and Si Qi Zhai. Originally from Weifang City, Shandong Province, he is the branch president of the Baisanheishui Painting Academy and vice president of the China National Painting and Calligraphy Academy.

Wang Rong Artistic Biography A native of Datong, Shanxi, currently residing in Beijing. His courtesy name is Yunshi, and his art name is Yunshanzhongren. Director of the Pinggu District Artists Association, Beijing Shanxi Provincial Artists Association...

Empower content monetization

Elevate your income to a new level

Click to contact customer service

Online time: 8:00-16:00

Customer service QQ

88888888

Customer service phone number

400-888-8888

Customer service email

ceotheme@ceo.com

Scan QR code

Follow the WeChat official account

Scan QR code

Visit this site on your mobile device