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图1 首饰盒  

  汉阴县博物馆藏有一件清代银鎏金累丝嵌宝首饰盖盒(图1),是清代贵族或富家女子闺房用品,很有欣赏及研究价值。

图2 打开一册盖的首饰盒

图3 盒底

  这件首饰盒,长19.6、宽13.5、高5.4厘米,重2079克。正面可见两盖中间置一合页,呈双盖双开门,盖面各饰掐丝蝴蝶纹,用天蓝、深蓝、绿、草绿等珐琅彩分别装饰蝴蝶各部位,又用银鎏金线累丝菊花纹为地。两只蝴蝶展翅欲飞。

  此豪华首饰盒的侧面。正、背侧面的上、下边沿累丝菱形花纹一周;其中部累丝团菊纹,其上分别掐丝镶嵌红宝石及双勾寿字纹,寿字笔画内点深蓝珐琅彩。两侧面中部饰兽面纹及古钱纹。分别用蓝、褐、肉红、天蓝等珐琅彩点饰画面各部位。两盖展开,亦似蝴蝶展翅预飞。

  盖背面是交叉四斜经和双纬编织的胡椒眼纹(图2);盒底面是累丝团菊纹(图3)。

  这件银鎏金累丝嵌宝烧蓝蝴蝶盖盒,平口双开门盒盖。盖面累丝及掐丝工艺为底托,作蝴蝶形,烧蓝装饰,嵌各色珐琅彩点缀;盒壁新颖独特,镶嵌红宝石及寿字纹,纹饰清晰,制作工艺精湛;整器充分反映了清代累丝、掐丝及点彩珐琅工艺的艺术风格和技术水平高超。这件工艺品不知制作者的名字,但他一定是当时的“大国工匠”。

  累丝是我国古代金工传统工艺之一,又名“花作”或“花纹”,为金属工艺中最精巧者,奇巧、规整、富丽。它是将金银拉成丝,然后将其编成辫股或各种网状组织,再焊接于器物之上,谓之累丝。

  掐丝,是景泰蓝制作中最关键的装饰工序。古代金工传统工艺之一。将金银或其他金属细丝,按照墨样花纹的曲屈转折,掐成图案,粘焊在器物上,谓之掐丝。江苏邗江东汉广陵王墓所出龙形金饰即有掐丝工艺制成的图形。此项工艺不仅在宝石、金银饰上运用,珐琅器也运用。

  古今每个富家爱美的女性都会有一个或几个自己爱不释手的宝贝首饰,戴上合适的首饰就像女性身体中不可或缺的一部分。首饰盒的发展也在不断革新,明清两代的首饰盒各式各样,用材及制作都很讲究,千方百计体现主人的高贵文雅。无论从外在还是内在都会大大地提升女性的亮丽指数和自信度。而一个精美的首饰盒,不但能让爱美女性的宝贝们找到一个漂亮的家,更能体现一个女性不凡的审美及品位,也是点缀生活情趣的绝佳亮点。

 

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